Calamari is a starter almost everyone loves, which means the bar for doing it well is high; people know instantly when it is done badly. Ours is lightly battered and fried crisp, brightened with charred lemon, and served with a house-made sweet and sour sauce. It is the plate that vanishes first at the table, and there is a real reason for that. Here is what goes into getting it right. It starts with the squid Good calamari begins long before the fryer, with the squid itself. Squid is naturally tender, but it turns from silky to rubbery in a matter of seconds if it is mishandled or overcooked. We treat it gently and cut it so it cooks evenly, because no batter or sauce can rescue squid that has gone tough. When the squid is right, it has a clean, sweet, briny bite that the crisp coating protects rather than hides. The key is a light hand Bad calamari is heavy, greasy, and chewy, a thick jacket of breading around a chewy ring. Good calamari is the opposite: a thin, crisp coating over tender squid. We keep the batter light on purpose so you taste the calamari, not a mouthful of breading, and we season it simply so the squid stays the point. Frying is a science Frying is where it is won or lost. The oil has to be hot enough that the coating crisps and sets almost immediately, sealing the squid so it steams tender inside instead of soaking up grease. Too cool, and the calamari drinks in oil and turns soft and heavy; too crowded in the fryer, and the temperature drops and you get the same sad result. We fry it hot, fast, and to order, which is why it arrives crackling rather than limp. Charred lemon and sweet-and-sour Two finishing touches lift it above the usual. Charred lemon, squeezed over the top, adds a smoky brightness that cuts the richness of anything fried and wakes the whole plate up. And our house-made sweet and sour sauce brings a tangy, glossy dip that keeps you reaching back in. Between the acidity of the lemon and the tang of the sauce, every bite stays lively instead of turning flat and one-note. Made for sharing Crispy calamari is a natural for the middle of the table. It is a crowd-pleaser that bridges everyone, from the adventurous eaters to the ones easing into a Thai menu for the first time, and it pairs perfectly with cocktails while you look over the rest of the menu. Order it early in the meal; it will not last long enough to be an afterthought. Good to know Crispy calamari contains shellfish (squid) and gluten from the light batter, so let your server know about any allergies before you order. It is mild rather than spicy, which makes it one of the safest crowd-pleasers on the starters menu for guests who are cautious about heat. Because it is fried to order, give it a moment; that extra minute in the kitchen is exactly what keeps it crisp instead of soggy by the time it reaches you. Build a starter spread Pair it with our Roti Curry, the rich Satay Crab, or golden Money Bags for a full spread of Thai starters. It is the most sociable way to open a meal, and a great excuse to order one more round of drinks. Where to find it Crispy Calamari is on the starters section of our full menu at 3872 Roswell Road NE Unit 18B, Atlanta, GA 30342 in Buckhead. When you are choosing among restaurants near me for a night out, a great shared starter sets the tone for everything that follows. Call (404)-343-1516 to book a table. How do you keep the calamari from being chewy? We use a light batter and fry it hot and fast, to order. Quick, high-heat frying crisps the coating before the squid overcooks, which keeps it tender rather than rubbery. What is it served with? Charred lemon to squeeze over the top and a house-made sweet and sour sauce for dipping. The lemon adds smoky brightness and the sauce adds a tangy, glossy finish. What other starters should I order with it? It rounds out a spread nicely with Roti Curry, Satay Crab, and Money Bags. Thai starters are made for sharing.